Largely untouched by human hand, Botswana is home to
one of the world's great natural phenomena, the tranquil
Okavango Delta, a 15,000-sq.-km (5,850-sq.-mile) inland
flood plain that fans out in the north-western corner of
the country, creating a paradise of palms, papyrus, and
crystal-clear channels and backwaters. Set in a massive
sea of desert sand, this fragile wonderland of
waterways, islands, and forests is an oasis for
wildlife, drawn to its life-giving waters from the
surrounding thirst lands. Here, the evening air is
filled with the sounds of birds calling, frogs trilling,
and antelope rustling in the reeds. Wildebeest,
hartebeest, buffalo, and zebra roam the islands;
elephants wade across channels guarded by hippos and
crocs; and predators rule the night.
But it is not only animals and birds that are
attracted to this huge, verdant oasis. Because the area
is so sensitive, the Botswana government operates a
policy of low-volume, high-income tourism, making
southern Africa's premier wilderness destination a
pricey holiday destination -- but this doesn't stop
people from flocking to one of the world's most
game-rich and unspoiled wilderness areas. To service
these visitors, scores of safari companies have been
established in and around the delta, particularly in the
Moremi Game Reserve, situated in the north-eastern sector
of the delta. Because it is both expensive and
complicated to travel independently in Botswana (huge
distances are involved and the road network is poor) and
almost impossible in the delta itself, visitors are
advised to contact one of these companies to arrange
their trip. Most offer full-package holidays that cover
the delta and surrounds, and will organize everything
for you, including flights, transfers, accommodations,
and game-viewing trips.
Bear in mind that if you do a whistle-stop visit,
flying in one night and out the next day, you will be
disappointed. The delta has its own unique moods and
rhythms, and a varying landscape: To experience these,
you should plan to spend 3 nights here, preferably 4.
But there is more to Botswana than the delta. To the
northeast lies Chobe National Park, a 12,000-sq.-km
(4,680-sq.-mile) home to some 100,000 elephants. To the
southeast are the spectacular Makgadikgadi and Nxai
pans, where the space is so vast that, it is said, you
can hear the stars sing. Most safari companies include
the Chobe and its surrounds on their itineraries, and
some venture south into the endless horizons of the
Kalahari pans.
Like so many of Africa's wilderness areas, the delta
is under threat from human need. A shortage of good
grazing on adjacent lands makes the lush grass in the
delta a standing temptation to stock farmers, especially
in times of drought. The demands of Botswana's
diamond-mining industry and the ever-expanding town of
Maun (principal jumping-off point for the delta), both
thirsty for water, pose an ongoing threat to the delta's
precious liquid reserves, as does the proposed dam at
Popa Falls, Namibia. All of which means that, if you
want to experience the untamed Africa of our ancestors,
a trip to Botswana should enjoy the highest priority.
